After
a brief sweep through Arizona and Monument Valley, we came to New
Mexico, AKA The Land of Enchantment. Its magic took hold as we passed
through Navajo and Zuñi territory. The landscape wowed us as usual.
In Farmington an ADULT VIDEO store was right after a JESUS WATCHING
YOU billboard. When we arrived in Truchas, a rooster crowed, even
though it was well after noon.
New
Mexico’s usual post-apocalyptic ambience was stronger this year.
There have been many apocalyptic events, the coming of the Spaniards,
the coming of the Anglos, the coming of opiods and meth. This time,
it looked like current political developments had taken their toll.
In
Taos (short for La Cuidad de Don Fernando de Taos), the Sun God Lodge
was closed “4 REPAIRS.”
To
make matters worse, the Wired? Coffee-Cyber-Cafe was out of business,
signs taken down, zen garden with its statuary, fountains, and koi
ponds gutted, murals left to fade in the sun. No more of their cafe
mochas.
Luckily,
they had cafe mochas at Taos Java, a similar, but more crowded place
with a drive-thru window. Their artisan-made apple empanada wasn’t
bad. The atmosphere wasn’t quite so post-modern hippy-dippy. Folks
were doing wi-fi connected business meetings rather than playing chess
and contemplating the Great Whateverthehell.
At
a gas station I saw a group of bikers who may have been
unintentionally androgynous. Or maybe it was intentional . . .
Flyers
for yoga classes and events that combined music with sending out good
vibes to improve the human condition by spiritual means were still
posted everywhere, but there was also Zombie Tactical Guns &
Ammo.
Some
changes have been going on.
And
some folks were driving like they got their Labor Day weekend
drinking started early and planned on being in jail or the hospital
by sundown.
After
a rainy night, and a cool morning, with John McCain’s funeral on
the TV, we decided to give Santa Fe a try.
On
the way, I saw that Truchas, which is quivering somewhere between
ghost town and an art colony, is full of empty structures sporting
Sotheby’s for sale signs. Some of the farms are still in business,
but it looks like our getaway place may be feeling what ever’s in the
air. Guess you can’t have paradise without trouble.
Along
El Camino Real, encroaching storms looked like dark, frozen tidal
waves.
I
found some interesting books--most notably Christy G. Turner &
Jacqueline A. Turner’s Man
Corn: Cannibalism and Violence in the Prehistoric American
Southwest--but
Emily and her mother didn’t find their usual thrift store
treasures. Emily speculated on the political situation influencing
the economy.
Later,
while driving back to Truchas after dinner in Chimayó, we saw a
spectacular double rainbow in a slate-gray sky. Then a fantastic
storm erupted. Yeah, enchantment. The magic don’t need no stinking
socioeconomic prerequisites.
Emily
and I did another run to Taos the next day. Found a place that showed
promise: The Coffee Spot. No cafe mochas, but the Mexican lattes are
amazing. So are the breakfast burritos. It has a funky, arty, decor
and a garden with outdoor tables where you can get inspired.
While
Em did some more clothes shopping, I wandered around and took some
pictures of post-apocalyptic scenes, Jackson Pollock shots, Andy
Warhol shots . . . Here snapshots turn out as weird art.
Coyotes
went berserk our last night in Truchas.
We
got news of the fiasco at the Zozobra ritual in Santa Fe. A “security
miscommunication” caused the giant effigy to be set fire early,
while a lot paying customers were locked out. Dissatisfaction was in
the air.
We
made our way home under miles of low, scattered storm clouds and
showers, through reservation lands where the tourist mythology
camouflages Aztlán under the Great Hollywood Cowboy and Indian Myth.
Though lately, UFOs and dinosaurs are added to the mix.
I
saw a taco-shaped cloud, and sacred datura growing south of
Payson/Cottonwood next to the I-17.
Then
we got stuck in a traffic jam in the rain.